Hardening Off in a Propagator

Once your plants have made it through winter, the time will come when they must leave the safety of their heated propagators and moved to their final growing place .

Before moving plants out of your heated propagator, you will need to harden them off. “Hardening off” is the process of acclimatising your plants to live outside of a heated environment, encouraging them to develop stronger, waxier leaves that can cope with natural conditions outside the propagator. This must be carried out gradually to avoid your plants going into shock.

You can start hardening off your plants when night time temperatures reach 5°C; although the higher the temperature, the easier the process will be. If hardening off at 5°C, you still need to implement some additional protection such as a frost protection fleece. A frost protection gardening fleece will keep the plant safe from any sudden drops in temperature and will allow you to plant outside sooner.


The decision for when to harden off plants should be based on the time of sowing/planting rather than the development stage of your plant. Young plants are less likely to tolerate sudden changes in temperature, so these should be left a little longer. Typically, when your plant has developed its true leaves it will be ready for hardening off.

Plants grown in warmer environments, such as an Electric Heated Propagator, will need to be hardened off more gradually, as these are used to higher temperatures.

The duration of the hardening off process can vary depending on what you are growing. However this is the typical process for hardening off in an electric heated propagator:

Stage 1: Leave the lid off your propagator during the day

Recommended Duration: 7 days

Stage 2: Leave the lid off your propagator all the time

Recommended Duration: 7 days

Stage 3: Remove plants from the propagator (ideally move to greenhouse or mini greenhouse, or outside with plant frost protection)

Recommended Duration: 7 days

Stage 4: Transplant your plants in their final planter


In addition to these steps, it is important to consider the other changes that your plant will have to adapt to and how you can prepare them for this.

- Your plants will be experiencing greater levels of direct sunlight, so try to move your plant to a sunnier spot gradually throughout this process to lessen the shock.

- Aim to plant out on an overcast day as this will minimise the risk of your plants wilting.

- If planting outdoors, protect young plants from slugs with some organic slug pellets and keep hungry pests away.

Now your plants will be ready to grow and your Vitopod Propagator will be free for sowing your springtime seedlings!

If you have any questions about hardening off, or if you’d like to share any advice from your previous experience, feel free to call us on 0845 602 3774 or email us at info@greenhousesensation.co.uk. Our Gardening Angels are always happy to help!

How to get the Best from an Electric Propagator

An electric heated propagator provides the ideal growing environment to give your seeds and cuttings the best possible head start.

If you’re using a height adjustable propagator such as our Award Winning Vitopod Propagator, you can add extra layers to create your own mini greenhouse. Perfect for keeping taller plants frost free over winter and giving seeds and cuttings extra time and space to grow.

Read our Gardening Angels top tips on how to get the best out of your heated propagator.

Optimum Temperature Settings

Ensure the best possible growth by setting your heated propagator to the right temperature for what you are growing. The temperatures required for each plant can vary depending on what seeds you are propagating, so always check the seed packets for any suggested growing temperatures.

We would recommend setting the Vitopod’s thermostatic control for 20˚C, as this will generally provide the ideal temperature for the majority of propagated plants. This way, you can, for example, grow chillies and tomatoes at the same time, without the risk of either seed being cooked.


When growing your own chilies, your seeds will benefit from temperatures between 25-30˚C for germination. Once germinated, set the temperature around 18-24˚C in the daytime and lower to 15-18˚C at night to ensure consistent growth.

Tomato growers will want to set their propagator for 22-30˚C when germinating, then adjust to 16-22˚C during the day and 14-16˚C overnight for optimum growth. Generally, most other vegetables will require temperatures around 15-20˚C.

Controlling Humidity in Your Propagator

Humidity can be a real problem in a heated propagator so watch out for a build-up of condensation which can cause young plants to rot and die off. If you see condensation running down the sides of your propagator, open the vents or remove the lid to allow excess heat to escape. If you do remove the lid, remember to replace it overnight!

Do I Need to Use Gravel or Sand?

If you’re using a Vitopod Heated Propagator to propagate your seeds and cuttings, heat is distributed evenly throughout the base of your propagator so there is no need to use sand or gravel.

Some propagators do not provide even heat across their base. This is essential when ensuring even growth in your propagator, so if you do not have a Vitopod, you may want to consider lining the base of your propagator with either gravel or sand. This will allow the heat to be spread evenly through your propagators base. If you don’t even out the heat you may find some of your seeds may germinate faster than others and your seed trays may dry out faster.

Do I Need to Use Capillary Matting?

Rather than watering from above, some gardeners prefer to place a wet capillary mat below their plants, allowing them to absorb the water from below. This can be done with the Vitopod propagator, however keep an eye out for any humidity issues and be careful not to over-water your plants.

Watering Seedlings

Young seedlings will not require a great deal of water, but you still don’t want them to dry out. Monitor moisture levels using a moisture meter and ensure your seedlings receive the right level of watering. Ideally, you should aim to keep the soil moist but should not see any surface water.

Providing Light for Your Seedlings

If seedlings don’t get the light they need, they develop long and skinny stems that are unable to support the plant’s growth. This will lead to your plants being increasingly susceptible to disease and pests whilst failing to provide a great harvest. To increase your plant’s exposure to light, move your propagator to a sunny windowsill or greenhouse.

Keeping Your Propagator Clean

At the start and end of the sowing season ensure you have cleaned your Vitopod Electric Propagator, seed trays and pots before adding any new plants. By using a biodegradable soap, you can keep everything neat and tidy whilst helping to prevent the spread of any plant diseases.



There are many different ways you can utilise the Vitopod Electric Propagator, so if you have any questions about setting up the propagator or any tips from your experience, feel free to call us on 0845 602 3774 or email us at info@greenhousesensation.co.uk. Our Gardening Angels are always happy to help and love hearing your propagation success stories!

Overwintering in a Heated Propagator

Protect your favourite plants from frosts this winter and overwinter healthy plants and cuttings in a heated propagator.

What is Overwintering?

Overwintering is the process of providing a safe environment for your plants, ensuring they survive over winter. A heated propagator, such as the Vitopod Heated Propagator, provides the heat and protection your plant needs to survive.

With large vents for humidity control, you can place the Vitopod Propagator inside your greenhouse, its clear sides and lid allowing your plants to take full benefit from the available light. By adding extra layers to the Vitopod, you can accommodate for taller plants.

Why Overwinter my Plants

Overwintering gives plants will get a head start when the daylight increases in February and start growing your favourite fruit and vegetables earlier.

You can expect an earlier harvest of bumper crops from any overwintered plants as the start leads to an extended growing season. Plus, by protecting your fragile plants from the elements, overwintering could be considered as additional plant frost protection.

What to Overwinter

Overwintering is perfect for tomato and chilli growers, so prepare your plants for the move to a heated propagator. For more information on overwintering chillies, read our guide by clicking here.

Ornamental plants, such as fuchsias or geraniums, can also be overwintered. This is a great cost-cutting measure as you can keep your beautiful flowers going for replanting in the spring. This is an ideal way to protect your ornamental plants from frosts, ready for taking cuttings for the next season.

Our Gardening Angels like to use a Hydropod cuttings propagator for increased cuttings success rates. The Hydropod reduces the risk of damping-off, drying-out and fungal infections and helps to speed up growth.

When to Start Overwintering

You can typically start overwintering when night time temperatures drop significantly, which is normally around the end of October.

Prepare your Plants for Overwintering

If you are an allotment grower, you will notice the ground is starting to frost over. By using a frost protection fleece to cover any rooted plants, you can keep them protected until they move to the propagator.

Before moving your plants to the propagator, trim back branches to around 10cm and harvest as much as you can. Chillies and tomatoes can be ripened off plant if necessary. By removing branches, foliage and fruit, your plant will require less energy to keep going and will be more likely to survive the winter.

If you are overwintering any plants grown in planters, carefully dig them out and repot them. Try to remove any loose compost and repot with fresh compost. You could also consider trimming back the roots on your plants and moving to smaller pots as this allows the plant to reserve and focus its energy.

Caring for Overwintered Plants

Once your plants have been moved to the electric propagator, you can begin supporting them over winter. A good source of light is essential for a plant’s survival, so ensure your propagator is positioned appropriately; consider placing the propagator within your greenhouse.

As temperatures decrease, plants retain water for longer. Over watering will encourage damp and mould to develop around the plant. Check the plant every few days and only water if the surrounding compost is dry.

Maintain a constant temperature between 5°C and 12°C to keep plants alive and frost free. If the temperature surpasses 12°C, plants start to grow, which you won’t want to happen until spring. With the Vitopod Propagator, we recommend opening the vents fully over winter to allow airflow around your plants, helping to prevent bacterial and viral disease build up.

When to Replant your Plants

When the temperature begins to surpass 12°C consistently, typically around March or April, turn up the temperature in your Vitopod to encourage growth. When outdoor temperatures rise, your plants will be ready to move from the safety of your heated propagator and into their new planters. When you do move to new planters, it is very important your plants are not hit by the frost, so consider using some Frost Fleece to protect your plant in the early stages.

Who to Talk to About Winter Propagation

If you would like to know more about propagating over the winter months or what you can grow with your propagator, feel free to call us on 0845 602 3774 or email us at info@greenhousesensation.co.uk. Our Gardening Angels are always happy to help and love hearing your propagation success stories!

If you want to learn more about ripening tomatoes off plant, click here for our handy guide!

Make Your Own Leafmould Compost

Making Leafmould Compost

Autumn is the perfect time to make leafmould compost from the leaves that find their way onto our lawns and paths!

Leafmould is perfect for seed and potting mix, and can be used all over the garden. It can be made out of any deciduous leaf but evergreen leaves break down more slowly, so add these to your main compost heap.

 Leafmould can be made in three easy steps:

Collection

Collect the leaves with a rake, lawn mower or garden hoover. Lawn mowers are great for collecting leaves as they shred them at the same time – which saves you a job later. Our Gardening Angles use Handy Leaf Pickers to gather leaves quickly. Most types of leaves can be kept together (pine needles should be kept separate to make ericaceous leafmould).

Watering

If your leaves are dry, water the heap to get the decomposition process started. Pop the leaves in a bin bag and puncture the bag with a fork to allow air to circulate. We wouldn’t recommend using hessian sacks for leafmould compost as they will degrade over time.

Storage
Keep the bags of leafmould stored for up to 2 years to make high quality compost. 1 year old leafmould can be used in the garden although it will only be suitable to use as mulch.

Love Green Tomatoes - Home Made Chutney

Love your green tomatoes and make fab chutney! Shorter days and colder nights mean that you might be left with unripe tomatoes – but don’t let them go to waste, have a go at this delicious chutney recipe.

Check out our tomato growing essentials for more inspiration.
http://www.greenhousesensation.co.uk/tomato-and-chilli-growing-essentials/tomato-growing-essentials/

Ingredients 

• 1kg green tomatoes chopped
• 450g onions finely chopped
• 450g apples or pears peeled, cored and chopped
• ½ tsp salt
• 450g white sugar
• 450g sultanas
• ¼ tsp fresh ground pepper
• 2 rounded tsp mustard seed
• ½ tsp ground ginger               
• 550ml white wine vinegar or cider vinegar

Method

1. Soften the onions in a pan with enough vinegar to cover them. You may need to top up the vinegar to prevent the onions from burning.
2. Once the onions are soft add the rest of the ingredients, stir in the sugar and bring to the boil.
3. Steadily boil the mixture until the chutney thickens and pour into jars ready to seal and store.

Controlling Aphids - Natural Pest Control

Lacewing & Lady Bird Log £24.99: Attract Lacewings to your garden or allotment and they will repay you with munching on troublesome aphids!

Spotting Aphids In Your Garden

Aphids are most active from spring to late summer on your outdoor plants and can be found indoors all year round. You can normally find Aphids colonising shoot tips, flower buds and the underside of younger leaves.

Signs of aphid problems include a sticky residue on foliage, stems and fruits. This is created when Aphids suck out the sap from your leaves and leave behind a residue which eventually results in the growth of black mould.

Aphids can also stunt the growth of your plants with curled or distorted leaves which can weaken your plants.

Benefits of Lacewings

Appropriately nicknamed “Aphid Lion”, Lacewings are a great natural predator of Aphids and the perfect way to protect your prized veggies from troublesome aphids.

Adult Lacewings also love feasting on aphids but also have a taste for pollen, nectar and aphids honeydew. As an adult lacewings lay their eggs in the spring producing around 20 eggs per day. The eggs are laid on the underside of the leaves; these then develop into the various larval stages of the lacewing before turning into adults.

During the larval stage, Lacewings can eat up to 50 Aphids each day. These Lacewing larvae also enjoy feasting on caterpillars, mites and other soft bodied insects.

Lacewing Habitats

Lacewing & Ladybird Log

You can provide a shelter for Lacewings with our Lacewing & Ladybird Log and they will repay you with preying on troublesome aphids, keeping your ornamentals, vegetables, fruit, greenhouse plants and house plants looking beautiful and healthy.

During the winter & early spring the hollow central chamber of our Lacewing habitat is filled with natural material to provide insulation keeping them free & safe from predators while they hibernate. When spring comes your Lacewings will be rejuvenated and ready to protect your plants from aphids.

Interesting Lacewing Facts

• There are 14 kinds of green lacewings in Britain.
• Male & Female Lacewings make courtship “songs’ by vibrating their abdomens which is unique to each species.
• A Lacewing can eat up to 10,000 aphids in its lifetime.
• In autumn, adult lacewings lose their green colour and develop a brown straw shade to blend in with autumn colour.

Learn more about our natural pest control and our wildlife habitats & feeders.

Growing in Water - Hydroponics Uses & Origins

Competitive & adventurous gardeners love growing in water with our Vivigrow and Rain & Drain Planters which use the hydroponic technique where plants are grown in water. There are some fascinating origins and uses behind the technique of growing in water so we thought we’d share a few with you...

Floating gardens of the ancient Aztecs

The Aztecs were a nomadic tribe who were driven onto the marshy shore of Lake Tenochtitlan, located in what is now Mexico. They had no land on which to grow crops, so they learned how to build rafts of rushes and reeds and grow vegetables, flowers, and even trees on these rafts which they called Chinampas.

They dredged up soil from the bottom of the lake and piled it on the rafts. The soil was rich of organic debris that released large amounts of nutrients which fed the abundant crops of vegetables, flowers, and even trees planted on them. The roots of these plants grew though the floor of the raft and down into the water. This is much like the root growth you will see in our Vivigrow Planter. Watch our short video showing early root growth of our tomatoes growing in our Vivigrow.

Sometimes the rafts were joined together to form floating islands as long as two hundred feet long. Some Chinampas even had a hut for a resident gardener.

The Aztecs eventually developed a large and powerful empire but they continued to maintain the rafts. In the 16th Century when the Spanish arrived in the New World in search of gold, they were fascinated by these islands of trees seemingly suspended on the water. Chinampas continued to be used in the area into the nineteenth century.

Hanging gardens of Babylon

Many garden writers believe that the hanging gardens of Babylon, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, were grown using a sophisticated hydroponic system into which oxygen and nutrient rich fresh water was regularly pumped.

Egypt & Antartica

Ancient Egyptian hieroglyphic records dating back to several hundred years B.C. describe the growing of plants in water along the Nile without soil. The extreme environmental conditions found in the Arctic make the process of growing food a formidable challenge. Four months of solid daylight, four months of total darkness, and unpredictable winds and temperature changes make growing extremely difficult. However, in Antarctica, successful harvests are achieved on a daily basis.

Astrastronauts & Military

NASA have been trialing systems growing in water and now astronauts are likely to be fed on long flights using food originating from crops grown in water. In World War 2 the shipping of fresh vegetables to overseas outposts was not practical so both the American Army and the Royal Air Force opened hydroponic units at military bases. Many millions of tons of vegetables grown without soil were eaten by Allied Soldiers and Airmen during the war years. After World War II the military command continued to use hydroponic growing methods. The United States Army had a special hydroponics branch and in 1952 it grew over 8,000,000 lbs. of fresh produce in water.

Our Vivigrow & Rain & Drain Planters

The Vivigrow is a ‘hydroponic’ growing technique and our very own founder of Greenhouse Sensation was one of the pioneers of hydroponics. He developed the Vivigrow so that this technique of growing in water in a soil-less planter could be adapted for home/greenhouse use on a smaller scale. The beauty of the Vivigrow planter is that the planter pumps a constant stream of water & nutrients over your plants’ roots, which encourages your plants to take up more water, nutrients and oxygen compared to if you were growing in soil. Watch our founder harvesting a mass of chillies grown in our 3 Plant Vivigrow Planter at the end of the growing season.

Our Rain & Drain Tropical Planter has been designed by our horticulturists to replicate the watering & feeding conditions needed by tropical plants. The Rain & Drain Planters inclusive water timer ensures your tropical and exotic plants such as bananas, ginger and papaya are fed & watered several times a day without ever over-watering. Pebbles are used in the planter instead of soil and a small pump waters the plants several times per day ensuring the plants have access to everything they need for stronger healthier plants and bumper harvests. Watch our founder breaking ginger harvest record.